A Strange Day in Penayung aka China Town

Today, I tried to eat lunch at the nameless alleyway restaurant that caters to Christians and foreigners by serving such rareties as pork and a delicious iced tea. It was full of military men in uniform. With large automatic guns, appetites. and loud mouths. So I did not eat there today. Instead, I went past their empty, green truck, and around the corner to a noodle cart with a name, attached to a coffee shop also full –but less full- of somewhat less rambunctious soldiers. These men were all on a few hours of vacation from military training in a town not too far away (the last time I heard about a military training was while staring at a charred shack on the pristine beach- they were apparently doing an anti-terrorism training) and chose to spend their break here, in China town (dubbed as such by the foreigners).
Over my iced coffee I can see a Church, complete with clock and cross. In front of me are several active games of mah-jong and the menu includes Ifumie and Mie Tiaw Kuah. Other places in this part of town have Buddha statues with small pillars of burning incense. The women wear their long hair uncovered, and there is light bare skin all around. While all Chinese-Indonesians speak Indonesian, some also speak “Chinese” but there’s no distinguishing between Mandarin, Cantonese, or any other dialect.
This part of town seems to be sectioned off more or less by religion and minority status, as it seems predominantly non-Muslim. There are many Christians also of Batak descent (the Batak come from Central Sumatera around the Lake Toba area) in this area as well. The nameless pork restaurant is run by a Batak family and the alleyway bar (that I was very recently taken to by a friend) is run by Batak women. During my one and only trip to this particular place I was very pleased to be serenaded by a very loud, and mostly in tune chorus of men singing Batak songs with one guitar players and a round (or several) of drinks. The joint was dim, small, at the end of a dark alleyway and full of men having a good time. It was great. I am told there is a Chinese-run brewery behind another Church but as of this post, I have not yet had the occasion to find it. Rumor has it that too much of this liquor can cause blindness.
While I always enjoy my time – and noodles- in this part of town, it was quite unusual to see so many military men today. It was a clear reminder of the division of duties between the military (national government) and local religious police. Despite the reports from the foreign press, I have only ever interacted with the former. Like me, they are from other cities and seeking out comfort food where they can find it.

More to come soon.